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“They were always superior to us,” Dot reminded her friend. “Even as a kid, you were a superior little snot,” she said to Da

“Where are you living nowadays?” the cook asked them. He was hoping they lived close by-somewhere in Vermont, or in New York State-but he could tell by their accents, and by just looking at them, that they were still living in Coos County.

“ Milan,” May answered. “We see your pal Ketchum, from time to time.”

“Not that Ketchum would say hello to us, or nothin’,” Dot said. “You was all so superior-the three of you and the Injun!”

“Well…” the cook began; his voice trailed away. “I have a lot to do, in the kitchen.”

“First you was go

“That’s right,” the cook said.

“I’m havin’ a look in the kitchen,” Dot suddenly said. “I don’t believe a fuckin’ word these two are tellin’ us. I’m go

“There’s the two waitresses, both of ’em cryin’, and a young cook, and what looks like a busboy, and some kid doin’ the dishes-no Injun,” Dot a

“Boy, do you look like you’re puttin’ your pecker somewhere you shouldn’t, Cookie!” May told him. “You, too,” she said to Da

“No wife, no children,” Da

“Bullshit,” Dot said. “I don’t believe a fuckin’ word!”

“And I suppose you’re not bangin’ anybody, either?” May asked the cook. He didn’t answer her; he just kept looking at his son, Daniel. Their minds were racing far ahead of this moment in Avellino. How soon could they leave? Where would they go this time? How long before these bad old broads crossed paths with Carl, and what would they tell the cowboy when they ran into him? (Carl lived in Berlin; Ketchum lived in Errol. Milan was between them.)

“If you ask me, Cookie’s humpin’ our waitress-that older one,” Dot said to May. “She’s the one doin’ most of the cryin’.”

The cook just turned and walked back into the kitchen. “Tell them their di

“You don’t need to tell us-we heard him,” May said to Da

“You coulda just been nice to us-glad to see us, or somethin’!” Dot called after the cook, but he was gone. “You don’t hafta buy us supper, Cookie!” Dot hollered into the kitchen, but she didn’t go after him.

May was putting money on Da

“That’s right,” he told her.

“Fuck you and your dad,” Dot told him.

“Cookie was always holier-than-thou, and you were always a holier-than-thou kid!” May said to him.

“Sorry,” Da

Meanwhile, there was an unserved party of eight and another table with three astonished-looking couples. Everyone had been paying close attention to the confrontation, but it was over now. Dot and May were leaving. The women both gave Da

When the bad old broads were gone, Da

Back in the kitchen, it was worse than Da

“Tell me what to say, Greg, and I’ll say it,” Da

Greg was weeping into the rosemary and red-wine reduction. “Your dad said Avellino is finished,” Greg told him. “He said this is his last night. He’s putting the place up for sale, but we can run the restaurant ourselves until it sells-if we can manage, somehow.”

“Greg, just how the fuck do we manage?” Celeste cried out.

“I didn’t say we could,” Greg blubbered.

“Get rid of the Red Sox, for starters,” Da

“Yes, I know you were always of the opinion that Vermont was too fucking close to New Hampshire, Ketchum!” the cook was shouting into the phone. “Why don’t you tell me something useful?”

“Tell me what to say to the customers, Greg,” Da

“Tell them they better keep their orders simple,” Greg told him.

“Tell them to go home, for Christ’s sake!” Loretta said.

“No, goddamn it-tell them to stay!” the sous chef said angrily. “We can manage.”

“Don’t be an asshole, Greg,” Celeste told him; she was still sobbing.

Da

He went to the wine rack and picked out a couple of good reds; Da

At least Celeste was standing, though Loretta looked in better shape. “One Moretti for the party of eight. I gave wine to everyone else-on me,” Da

“Yeah, I guess I’m okay,” Loretta told him.

“I can work,” Celeste said unconvincingly.

“You better get your dad off the phone before he has a heart attack,” Greg said to Da

“I’m not changing my name again!” the cook was screaming into the phone. “I’m not leaving my country, Ketchum! Why do I have to leave the entire country?”

“Let me speak to him, Pop,” Da

“Dot and May!” Ketchum hollered. “For Christ’s sake, Da

“How long do we have, Ketchum?” Da