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Troubleshooting Soups
All of the recipes in this book will give you tasty results, but ingredients differ, stoves differ, and every cook has a bad day now and then. It helps to know how to fix a problem, should you ever run into one. Here are some of the frequent slings and arrows of soup making and how to fix them.
PROBLEM: “My soup tastes flat.”
SOLUTION: Add an acidic ingredient. Chefs know that a squeeze of lemon juice, a hit of good-quality sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar, or a glug of brandy can brighten the flavor of any dish, especially soup. Add a small amount, 1 tsp or so, to start. Taste the soup, and then add more if needed.
PROBLEM: “My soup needs salt.”
SOLUTION: The obvious answer is to add salt, but there are plenty of other ingredients that can add saltiness and an interesting flavor at the same time. Specialty salts add the sodium you’re looking for with other interesting notes—try smoked salt, truffle salt, or lemon salt. Fish sauce and soy sauce will also add umami, the fifth taste (in addition to sweet, sour, bitter, and salty), which lends a savory flavor and saltiness. Or whisk a little miso with a ladleful of the soup, and add the mixture to the pot for saltiness, umami, and body. Dry cheeses like Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, Manchego, and dry (aged) Jack cheese will also provide saltiness, but are best added right before serving.
Sometimes, salt isn’t the problem; it’s actually flavor you’re missing. Try adding 2 to 3 tsp of nutritional yeast (see Flavor Toolbox, page 12) or fresh herbs to heighten the flavor of a soup that lacks interest.
PROBLEM: “My soup is too salty.”
SOLUTION: The best remedy is prevention. When finishing soup, taste three spoonfuls before adding any seasoning. I ladle out that much into a small ramekin, let it cool for a few seconds, and then taste it. This bigger trial size will give you a better picture of what it will be like to eat a whole bowl of the soup, so you’ll be able to gauge how much salt it really needs.
If, despite your best efforts, you’re stuck with a too-salty soup, add some hot water or milk, but not broth. Broth has sodium in it and will make your soup thi
PROBLEM: “I want my soup to be thicker.”
SOLUTION: Try simmering the soup, uncovered, to let some steam escape, thereby reducing the liquid. Or, you can purée some of the soup in a blender and return it to the pot. This will help to thicken the soup.
Another option is to add a starch. Make a slurry by whisking equal parts of all-purpose flour and water (about 1 Tbsp of each). Add this to the soup, and simmer for at least 1 minute to cook the starchiness out. You can also make a gluten-free slurry with cornstarch or arrowroot. Steer away from arrowroot if your soup contains milk or cream, however, as it makes creamy soups slimy.
Yet another option is to add pasta or rice to the soup. A handful of rice or small pasta (such as stars or couscous) will absorb some of the excess moisture and add starch to the soup, which will thicken it.
PROBLEM: “My soup tastes burned.”
SOLUTION: Creamy soups, like chowders, and thick soups, such as those based on beans or lentils, can scorch easily. Prevention is the best practice. Use a heavy-bottomed soup pot; stir frequently, especially into the bottom edges of the pan; and mind the heat. Creamy soups should never cook above a gentle simmer.
If your soup has a burned, smoky taste from scorched ingredients, I’m afraid it’s time to start over or order take-out.
PROBLEM: “I defrosted frozen soup and now it looks curdled.”
SOLUTION: The proteins in dairy can curdle when frozen and reheated. The soup will still be delicious, but if you’re a stickler for texture, strain the broth into a blender, reserving the solids, and blend it until smooth. Gently reheat the broth with the solids over low heat.